Dr Berenstein calls flavourists craft artisans – people doing skilled work with their hands, and she describes their creations as the marriage of science and art.
Strolling away from Xiao Bai's house, past the bent heads of Bai women tying their patterns, the sweat and hard work of craftspeople bring the craft to life.
At the very heart of this industrial food system, there are these craft artisans who are essentially designing molecule by molecule, the flavours that shape the way food is made to taste.
And that was without the manicurist, the dermatologist, the piano teacher, the man who serviced and cleaned the cars, the handyman who worked for the building and sorted out replacement lightbulbs or faulty air-conditioning.
I think we still use the word handyman even when we are talking about women, but maybe people have started to use other words for that kind of thing now.
Large number of grassroots innovators, people who may not have studied much, but who are working at the community level, field level, farmers, artisans, mechanics and students.