Whether or not you realize it, as a surfer you're a master of complicated physics.
The science of surfing begins as soon as you and your board first hit the water.
The board's size and light construction help it displace a lot of water.
In turn, a buoyant force equal to the weight of the displaced water pushes up, counteracting you and your board's weight.
This lets you stay afloat while you wait to paddle for a wave.
And what exactly are you waiting for?
The perfect wave, of course.
Like other waves in physics, ocean waves represent a transfer of energy.
Wind blowing across the ocean accelerates water particles near the surface, leading to the growth of ripples that become waves.
These deviations from the flat surface are acted upon by gravity, which tries to restore the surface to its original flat state.
